Kalalau TrailLength: 11 miles / 2 miles (one way)
Seasons: Year round
Difficulty: Difficult
Na Pali has scenery so magnificent its picture is published worldwide. Hiking to the number one rated beach in the world is a 22 mile round trip, beginning on the island's north shore from Ke'e Beach to the Kalalau Valley,
but if you want just a small glimpse of the coastal views and lush jungle, you can take a short 2 mile hike to Hanakapiai Beach, although hiking past this point or camping on the beach requires a permit. Throughout the year, temperatures seldom drop below 60 degrees F. Summer weather (May to October) normally brings steady tradewinds and occasional showers while winter weather (October to May) is less predictable. Tradewind showers are more frequent during the night and early morning. Infrequent widespread storms cause flash floods. Special camping gear required is water purification tablets or filter, mosquito repellent, sunscreen, rain gear.
The trail begins in Ha'ena State Park at the northwest end of Kuhio Highway (Route 56)
about 41 miles (a 1 1/2-hour drive) from Lihu'e Airport. There is a lot of parking there, but unless you get there early you will not get a spot close to the trailhead. There are also many reported car break-ins, so if you want to be on the safe side you can park a at the 'Wet Cave' that you pass on the drive to the trailhead (only a couple minutes away). Also, another good idea is to take a picture of the map at the trailhead and use it as your guide. Just use your camera to find where you are by zooming in on the map. It has the waterfalls and trail mile markers, although there are mile markers on the trail.
The first 2 miles to the Hanakapiai Valley
The first section of the Kalalau Trail is a great idea for a day-hike or not so serious backpackers. All day long you will find families hiking to Hanakapiai Beach or even the waterfall, then hiking back.
These first 2 miles are the easiest, so if you are having any difficulty, turn back. The second mile is steep downhill and hard spots if your not an experienced hiker, but the views of the coast are well worth it. Hanakapiai Beach is a beautiful beach, but very dangerous to swim in (as you can see from my picture). Swimming or wading is not recommended because surf and rip currents are variable and often extremely treacherous, but worst in winter when high surf conditions prevail. Once you get to the Hanakapi'ai Valley, you may decide to take a short break, then head up to Hanakapiai Falls. This is a 2 miles, unmaintained trail in which some parts of the trail may be hard to follow. Some choose to just follow the stream all the way to the falls. After crossing the stream about a mile up the valley, the trail becomes more difficult as it meanders over rocks and fallen trees. The upper half of this trail should be hiked only in good weather to avoid dangerous flash floods and falling rocks. It is a nice waterfall to jump into and worth your time to hike to it.
Back at the beach, if you decide to camp here, there are many campsites from right off the rocky beach, to up the valley a few hundred feet. But remember that you must have a permit to go past this point or camp overnight at this beach. Obtain all permits from the Lihu'e State Parks offices or website or by calling 808-587-0300. Camping fees for Na Pali Coast are $10.00 per person per night. A maximum stay of 5 nights is allowed in Na Pali Coast State Park. Within the 5-night maximum, no 2 consecutive nights are allowed at Hanakapi�ai or Hanakoa. Day-use hiking permits are required when continuing beyond Hanakapi'ai valley, even if overnight camping is not planned. It is a good idea to camp here if you plan on hiking the full 11 miles to Kalalau Beach. It lets you wake up early and get a head start hiking only 9 miles without people hiking the trail in one day (On my trip, my group slept the first night here and then on the way back we hiked the whole 11 miles out without camping.) Scout out a place on each side of the valley - there are many good places we found after we set up camp. Composting toilets are available at Hanakapi'ai, Hanakoa, and Kalalau. They are disgusting and old but still toilets.
Mile 2 to Kalalau Beach
More strenuous hiking begins as the steep switchback trail climbs 800 feet out of Hanakapi'ai valley. The trail traverses the Hono o Na Pali Natural Area Reserve in the small hanging valleys of Ho'olulu and Waiahuakua before entering Hanakoa Valley. The reserve harbors a variety of native lowland forest plants. Near the Hanakoa Stream crossing, a rest area offers a
stop for weary backpackers. Facilities include a composting toilet and two roofed shelters. The shelters are within a complex of old agricultural terraces where Hawaiians once planted taro. These terraces were replanted with coffee plants in the late 1800s, which are still growing throughout the valley today. The poorly marked 1/2-mile trail up the east fork of the stream to Hanakoa falls has hazardous, eroded sections but affords a spectacular view of the falls. The trail crosses the stream well back in the valley, therefore there is no shoreline access at Hanakoa. In fact, Hanakoa is a hanging valley without a beach - the stream exhausts itself over cliffs at the ocean's edge.
After leaving Hanakoa valley, the trail enters drier, more open land which offers little shade from the midday sun. Tired hikers may be urged on by the panoramic view of Kalalau Valley's fluted cliffs and the coastline beyond. Portions of the trail in this section are very narrow and the drop off on the ocean side is severe. Use extreme caution, especially during wet weather. This part is not for wimps.
The trail crosses Kalalau Stream near the valley mouth before ending at Kalalau Beach and a small waterfall. Camping in Kalalau is allowed only behind this sand beach. During Summer, sea caves just beyond the waterfall provide popular camping shelters, but winter surf removes much of the beach and enters the caves. Shaded campsites are available beneath the trees behind the beach. Ocean swimming is not recommended for those unfamiliar with local sea conditions. Do not loiter beneath the waterfall or near cliff faces because there is a constant danger of falling rocks. Though the waterfall provides pretty fresh water, but most prefer to be safe and purify it. An easy 2 mile trail into Kalalau Valley ends at a pool as it passes through extensive agricultural terraces where Hawaiians grew taro, the staple crop, until about 1920. These terraces are now overgrown with a variety of alien trees, including Java Plum, Guava, and occasional large mango trees - all or which are great to eat! Though this is the most remote beach in Hawaii, there are people in the valley, including nudists, hippies and Vietnam vets, seek out the solitude and relief from civilization that the pure nature of Kalalau Beach offers.
There are year-round residents, who hike out every 6 months to get food and supplies, who create a local culture. There is even a library with over 200 books. Park rangers occasionally clear them out or chase them into hiding... so beware. The one mile long beach also has composting toilets. And remember all trash must be packed out! You can also kayak onto the beach, or take boat and helicopter tours.
As you hike back, you will see Na Pali from another angle and get more amazing views. Keep a lookout for sea caves on the coast! You might be able to come across many animals and if you watch closely, you may even catch a glimpse of whales out in the ocean!
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